Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Dia Mundial Sin Auto

Did you know that Sunday September 22nd was World Car-Free Day?!  No?  Well, here it's just another excuse to exercise, not that they need the excuse as it is a very common theme over here.  I inadvertently celebrated along with hundreds of other Cuencanos by running in a 5K.  I decided somewhat last minute to run and even showed up at the wrong park minutes before the race was supposed to start.  Luckily, a nice couple offered me a ride to the other park where I shuffled my way over to the t-shirt booth, was handed my free t-shirt and proceed to the start line.  No per-registration or fee required and even an additional souvenir t-shirt to boot.

I finished the 5K beating my best time ever, and it was the first time running where I didn't notice the altitude!  At the finish line there was a stage and a DJ and all the Cuencanos celebrated by dancing in the streets.    

The right two pics are a reenactment...I swear I wasn't last.

But wait...where are John and the boys, you ask???!!!!!!!



XO Shannon

Driving in Ecuador

I'm planning to rent a car this weekend to head North in the mountains. Driving here carries some additional risk, which I knew, but this advertisement, posted on a bus, sums it up pretty well:

The message says: 

"When driving, you should respect the red light, so you don't risk your life and that of others. Be careful!"

Thanks for the reminder. :)

Monday, September 23, 2013

We Were Horsing Around This Weekend

Or in other words we found yet another way to explore the mountains.  First by bus, than by car and later trekking, John on the bike and now....by horse back!   We woke up on Saturday morning to a beautiful sunny day, not a single cloud in the sky.  After reading several five star reviews of the Centro Ecuestre Bellavista and calling the owner Sebastian we decided to make the short bus trip out to the farm.  The first impression upon entering the large iron clad gates was the breathtaking countryside of which I can never imagine tiring from its exposure.  There was a herd of cows to my right and a family of geese to my left and off in the distance was a stable of competition horses galloping in a pack, all with the stunning backdrop of the Andes.  Sebastian greeted us immediately, introduced us to our horses, and we realized that we were the only ones there to ride...Bonus!  Anyway, the rest is best described in pictures...
Getting ready for our big ride
See that horse in front?  His life will be forever changed before we leave.
Have you ever seen a sky so blue?
 After our ride, the boys played a little soccer in the equestrian field while we were firsthand witnesses to Sebastian's horse...eh hem...being gelded.  Poor guy.  He handled it like a champ, just like John trying to explain to Finn what was happening. 
Look away boys, look away.

Saturday, September 21, 2013

Is the desire to travel genetic?



On the eve of our departure for Ecuador, my new colleague and friend, Jill, gave me a copy of the current National Geographic Traveler magazine (along with a copy of the recent edition of the Harvard Business Review – she figured me out quickly!). As I perused the magazine on the plane, one blurb caught my attention - that there is a new movement suggesting that a gene is at the root of the desire for human travel. From humanity’s origins in Africa thousands of years ago, we branched out and explored the world; later, the galaxy. And just a few months ago, the reach of human exploration left the boundaries of the Milky Way.

It is simple to think about such things in a macro way, but the thought really hit home with me. I have been pondering how this trip will affect my young sons. Will they, too, have a desire to explore and see the world beyond their front door? The desire to leave their comfort zone and find new and exciting, sometimes scary and downright awful, places they’ve never seen? 

As I write this essay, sitting on my couch in Ecuador, my parents are biking through Albania. My mom and dad have been in who-knows-how-many countries around this amazing planet, meeting locals, biking, dining, bungee jumping and whatever else, pushing their own limits. My sister, Katie, chose a career that satisfied her professional desire to work in the world of government policy…but within that world chose a division (Trade) that sent her to South America, Europe and beyond. While in college, when time was abundant, my brother and his buddies would just hop in their car and drive somewhere – anywhere – it didn’t matter to them, they just wanted to see something new.

My father’s parents, John and Rosemary, didn’t have the wherewithal to see the planet, but instead visited the great North American continent. In John’s lifetime, they visited all 50 states in the union, driving to the 49 they could, and saw much of Canada and a bit of Mexico as well. In my childhood, I have memories of them disappearing for months or even a year at a time, heading west with their travel camper on their truck, getting post cards from Montana, Wyoming, New Mexico, you-name-it.

I don’t know much about John’s extended family, but on Rosemary’s side, the same continues. Her sister is a nun in Finland. Her nephew, David, has lived in several places in Africa, and when David got married in Kenya, Rosemary – well into her seventies at the time – jumped at the chance to experience a tribal wedding there, and later visited David in Ethiopia.

On my mom’s side, the travel bug isn’t quite as evident – they didn’t have much in the early days, and with a large Catholic family, travel was a luxury they couldn’t afford. Still, my grandpa Harry drove a Greyhound bus and a truck at various points in his career. It could be argued, I suppose, that he just took whatever work he could get - but still, you don’t continue to drive a bus or a truck around the country unless you have that restless gene in your body.

Shannon doesn’t have quite the same background, but there is a clear family history of travel. Her parents have never had a great desire to travel, while her Aunt Marge goes on three or four extraordinary journeys around the world a year, be it Norway, Russia, the wine country of France – and all four of her grandparents immigrated to the United States. Immigration in those cases was greatly driven by necessity – but that can’t be all of it. Not everyone left Ireland, Italy, Germany or wherever – no matter how bad it got. Is there something more, then, that helps push the desperate to a strange new place? Shannon’s grandma, Angie, was led by her parents on one of the most amazing trips I have personally been touched by. When the Soviets invaded her native Poland during the War, Angie and her family were sent to a collective farm in Siberia. Angie’s mom and dad came to a decision that they could not stay, and left. They made a trek of the ages, south from Siberia all the way to India, catching a boat to Australia, and later a refugee boat to San Diego. It was a trip full of peril, and Angie lost her dad on the trip. This was clearly a trip borne of necessity, but you don’t hear a lot of those tales. Surely there was something else there in Angie’s parents, something that pushed them to make such an arduous trip, right?

Three generations later, Shannon and I can count our lucky stars that our desire to travel is not borne from necessity, but merely from the desire to experience the rush of seeing a beautiful new place, the satisfaction at successfully navigating our way through a foreign place where we don’t speak the language, and the joy at making new friends halfway around the world. I guess, then, in addition to the thanks we give our parents at providing a great upbringing, we must also give homage to our ancestors and the travel gene that passed from generation to generation.

And so we will watch our sons and wonder if they, too, share this gene…and where it may lead them.

Thursday, September 19, 2013

Searching for Peace...and Waterfalls

Last Saturday, we took our first overland bus in Ecuador and headed out 25 miles down the road to the town of Giron. Giron is known for two things, from a tourist's perspective - it was the site of a major peace treaty in 1829 between Peru and Ecuador (or more accurately, Gran Colombia, as Ecuador was a part of Colombia in those days), and the location of a beautiful series of waterfalls.

We arrived in Giron around 12:00. To give an idea of the cost of life down here for regular folks - the round trip bus fare for the four of us, all in, was $4.00. Kids generally are around half price of the adults. For tourists, naturally, the price goes up. Once we arrived in Giron, we had a choice of hiking 3.5 miles up the road to the trailhead for the waterfalls, or taking a taxi. Being with a 4 and 6 year old, we caught a taxi. The round trip taxi cost was $10.00.

In any case, we arrived at the base of the mountain, paid a minor park entrance fee and discussed the hikes with the clerk. There were three waterfalls in total, and three different hikes to reach each one. The latter two were apparently long and arduous, and difficult with kids. I think Finn was ready for the challenge, but Elliott wasn't quite there, so we climbed up to the first, and we weren't disappointed.







At the base of the waterfall, we ate our picnic lunch, and then we noticed a trail leading off into the bush. It was too much for the Y chromosome to resist...so Finn, Elliott & I set off. The trail wound through dense growth, and then began to head up the side of the mountain at an extremely steep incline. However, with the all of the growth, there were roots everywhere to use for hand and foot-holds, and the boys got excited, particularly Finn. Finn scrambled right up the side of the mountain with amazing grace, enough to scare me. Elliott was a little more careful, and I was just nervous - though I would have enjoyed the climb myself if not for a father's fear!








At a certain point, I wanted to stop, but Finn asked to "just to the top of this section, pleeeeasssse!". After a quick look, and with the confidence I had gained watching him amble up the trail, I let him go. Elliott took a break on a rock, and up Finn went. The trail got quite steep at the top of the picture to the left, so I climbed up behind to assist Finn with the descent...and we were both rewarded for the climb with an impressive view through the trees:

After that ascent, we returned to the base of the waterfall, and climbed to see some other views of the falls, and Elliott was happy to be able to find a fun little climb as well.



Finally, we came back down to the base, hung out with the local farm animals (alpacas), and then headed back down into town.

 













Once we arrived in town, we walked down to the very non-descript Museo de los Tratados, or Museum of the Treaties. The museum celebrated the victory of the Ecuadorian army, led by General Jose Antonio de Sucre, one of Simon Bolivar's top generals, over Peru in the Battle of Tarqui, and the subsequent peace treaty was signed in the building itself.

The museum was a military outpost, so the entry was free, and we were given a tour by a young Ecuadorian soldier. Shannon and Elliott weren't too interested, and instead chose to play in the courtyard, but Finn and I watched intently as the soldier reviewed the weaponry used in the battle.





























The boys especially got a kick out of me dressing in an authentic officer's uniform from the battle.

After the museum, we caught the bus back to Cuenca, and spent the evening resting after a busy day, but fantastic day!

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Same Same But Different


Same colors and font of store name.  Same large concept shopping style (minus the 2 pack shrink wrapped 48oz jars of peanut butter).  Different spelling?  

Monday, September 16, 2013

It's not just us - they're crazy here, too

Friday afternoon we went to the Coral hipermercado, which is like Walmart on steroids. As I stood in the oversized toy department with the boys, I glanced over and saw the Christmas decorations being set up...on September 13! Nuts!

Sunday, September 15, 2013

My first bike ride in the Andes: 1:20 up, 0:15 down



Over the past decade or so, my dad has visited Ecuador several times and ridden his mountain bike all over the Andes of this country. My mom has done so, and my brother and sister-in-law did that for their honeymoon. I have heard countless tales of the amazing rides through Ecuador’s “ring of fire”, of riding around Cotopaxi (a volcano), the mountain tops around Quito, and the amazing descent from the volcanic hot-springs town of Banos to the jungle of Puto. As such, I have dreamed of coming down here to do the same.

When we began planning this trip, I figured it would be unlikely that I would do any serious mountain biking. All of the above trips were coordinated with our friend Jorgen in Quito, and Quito isn’t close to Cuenca. Furthermore, I couldn’t just take off for a few days and leave Shannon and the boys behind. I thought that perhaps I might rent a bike and try to go out on my own, and that would be it.

But, to borrow from a favorite old quote, “I’d rather be lucky than smart”. As I mentioned before, our new friend Diego is an avid mountain biker – and not just that, he spent his career in the bicycle industry, working first at Specialized and later with Scott. Diego was at one point the director of Latin America distribution for Specialized. What are the chances that the first friend I make in town is him?

Thursday morning, I took the boys to school, met Diego and went back to his house to prepare for my first mountain bike ride. I had only packed my bike shorts and a bike jacket on the off chance that I might go for a ride, so I was rather unprepared. Unsurprisingly, Diego had extra everything – an extra jersey, gloves, shoes, and of course a bike. And not just any bike – a bike worth probably 6 or 7 times the value of my own. (The downside to this, of course, is that having ridden such quality, I am going to be in the market for a major, expensive upgrade.)

We took off around 9:00 from his house, located conveniently in the foothills of the Andes, and in less than a mile began our ascent. Adding to my luck, it was a beautiful, warm and sunny day. Here were the stats:

Ascent: 575 meters over 4.5 miles (continuous)
Final altitude: 3300 meters (10,890 feet)
Time up: 1 hour 20 minutes (plus a 15 minute break)
Time down: 15 minutes

Riding in Missouri, I’ve gone on fantastic rides through the woods, with lots of ups and downs, and little flat…but I have never gone on a continuous uphill like this. We went up, up and kept on going up. The altitude was a major beast – my legs were strong until the very end of the ascent, but I had to stop a couple times to catch my breath, and in one particularly steep and technical spot, I had to walk. Sadly, I did not reach the peak of the mountain – we ran out of time, probably about 100 meters below the peak. But that’s okay – there will be more rides!

The views were spectacular, and the ride down was intense and fun. Can’t wait to get out and do some more!




This was about a third of the way up. We started down in this valley.